Make mosaic table yourself: instructions, materials and tips

Make mosaic table yourself

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A mosaic table is a nice piece of furniture for balcony, terrace or winter garden. If you want to have such a piece of jewelry, you can easily make it yourself. It’s fun and much cheaper than a ready-made mosaic table from the shops. There are three ways to do it yourself.

1. With mosaic, an old table can become a new eye-catcher.
2. You build a table according to desired dimensions and decorate the top with mosaic tiles.
3. A metal table blank serves as the basis for the mosaic table.

Make your own mosaic table: These options are available

For laying ready-made (glass) mosaic tiles from the store or shards of ceramic tiles are suitable. Cheaper than mosaic tiles are glass plates, from which the individual stones are broken out with tile tongs. Before the instructions for the mosaic tables, some basic tips:

  • Break tiles: Be sure to wear protective goggles. Hit the back lightly with a hammer. Use (tile) tongs to break up existing broken pieces.
  • Tile adhesive: Use natural stone tile adhesive (flex adhesive). It does not crack and does not discolor. Always cover only as much surface with adhesive as can be worked on with tiles in half an hour.
  • Material requirements mosaic: Include an "offcut" when using tiles. Not all fragments fit together as a mosaic. For a round surface with a diameter of 60 cm, it needs at least 0.3 square meters of tiles.
  • Material requirements tile adhesive: Around 500 g of tile adhesive are needed for a round tabletop with a diameter of 60 cm.
  • Material requirements Grout: Round table top, diameter 60 cm: 3 to 4 packs of 250 g each.
  • Laying/Grout Width: When laying the tiles, always start at the edge of the table. While doing this, place the straight side of a shard on the edge of the table. For round tables, the tile can be snipped into shape with pliers. The joints between the mosaic stones or tile shards should be 2 to 8 millimeters wide (the larger the stones, the larger the joints).
  • Pattern: For a symmetrical pattern, score guide lines on the tile adhesive with a nail. Present more complicated patterns on a stencil made of cardboard with the mosaic stones/tiles.
  • Circle as a pattern: Lay from the outside to the inside. Cut small, square mosaic tiles partially in half with pliers and fill the gaps of the bend with them.

1. Mosaic on an old table

An old table with a worn tabletop does not have to end up in the bulky waste. How about giving it a new shine with a mosaic?

Material

  • Sandpaper
  • Painter’s masking tape
  • Mosaic stones or ceramic tile shards
  • Hammer or. (Tile) tongs for breaking up
  • Natural stone tile adhesive (flex adhesive)
  • Grout
  • Smoothing trowel and notched trowel
  • Rubber painter’s roller and joint rubber
  • Sponge, cotton cloth
  • Possibly frame strips

Instructions

Sand the table top until it is smooth. Remove sanding dust. If you want to have "clean" finishes on the edges of the tabletop, you can now glue on frame strips from the hardware store. Tape the edges of the tabletop – with or without frame strips – vertically with painter’s masking tape. Mix tile adhesive. Apply with a smoothing trowel and comb through with a notched trowel.

Lay the tiles and press down only lightly so that no adhesive oozes out of the gaps (if it does: remove with a toothbrush). Carefully roll over the tiles with the rubber paint roller so that they are all on the same level. Once all mosaic tiles are installed, allow to dry for three hours. Then apply the joint compound and spread evenly with the joint rubber. Pull off excess towards the edge of the table. After fifteen minutes, clean the tiles with a slightly damp sponge, later polish with a cotton cloth.

2. Mosaic on self-made table

This variant of a mosaic table is the most individual one. The dimensions can be freely chosen. Perfect for adapting a table to a niche or other conditions. The length of Table legs depends on the later use. If the mosaic table is to be used as a dining table, a leg length of about 75 cm is optimal. As a side table 60 cm is enough. In the hardware store are different variants of table legs as well as Table tops available. Individual dimensions are cut to size upon request.

The edges of the table top can be finished with Frame strips (hardware store) can be pasted. When fixing, the strips should protrude far enough above the tabletop so that the stones, including the adhesive, are later at the same height as the top edges of the strips. For larger table surfaces, ready-made mosaic mats for laying are an option. With them, the mosaic tiles are fixed at regular intervals on a net, which is pressed on the grout adhesive. More individual, however, is the "free" laying of stones or potsherds. Both methods can also be combined.

Apart from the additional material for the table, the material requirements correspond to instruction 1. The procedure is also the same.

3. Mosaic table with a blank made of metal

Table blanks made of metal have the advantage that nothing has to be sawn and the frame for the mosaic is already present. The tile shards or. Mosaic tiles lie after laying at the same height as the frame. The table legs are screwed to the table top from below. Round and square table blanks are available in different sizes and designs. They are usually made of steel and therefore weatherproof. You can still play it safe with a coating of rust inhibitor – it’s a good idea to apply it before doing any other work.

The recess of the table can either be filled with leveling compound before gluing the mosaic or with a precisely cut plywood board that serves as a support for the mosaic or the tile shards.

Material

The material requirement is the same as in instruction 1. Additionally needed:

  • Table blank
  • Leveling compound or. Joint glue to fill the tabletop (4-5 kg for a diameter of 60 cm) OR
    Plywood board, at least. 0.8 cm thick, 2-3 mm smaller than the diameter of the tabletop
  • If using a plywood board: shower/bath sealant
  • Natural stone silicone

Instructions

Mask the frame of the tabletop with painter’s masking tape to protect it from dirt. If the recess is filled with leveling compound, the joints should also be masked with masking tape so that nothing leaks out. Then fill in the casting compound so high that the bricks will later be flush with the top edge of the frame. Allow to dry. For those who have chosen plywood as an inlay, treat it with shower/bath caulk on both sides before use to protect it from moisture. Allow the plate to dry and then place it in the frame.

Mix the tile adhesive without lumps and spread it over the surface with a smoothing trowel. Then comb through with the notched trowel. Now lay the stones or shards from the outside to the inside. The finished work should dry for at least three hours before applying the grout and spreading it evenly between the stones with a rubber squeegee. Wipe off any excess joint compound on the outside. Cleaning the tiles with a damp sponge after fifteen minutes of work. Rework later with a dry cloth.

After the joint compound dries, clean the edge joint between the mosaic and the metal edge with a putty knife and fill it with natural stone silicone to protect it from water. Smooth the silicone with a damp spatula and let it dry. The mosaic table is ready!

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