Our sauna in the garden was almost ready. We had built a wooden post and beam garden shed and had almost completed the sauna interior construction.
Now it was time to build the sauna door. Sauna doors are of course available ready to buy. Sauna doors made of glass, for example, are also quite nice. Then, of course, we should have followed the appropriate dimensions when building the sauna. We wanted a sauna door with glass cutout, found the offers too expensive and you can see the whole thing also sporty.
For the construction of a sauna door you need a well-equipped workshop and a work table large enough that you can build the door on it. In our garden house we had both.
Dry wood is needed so that the door does not warp afterwards.
In the doorway we built the frame. This consists of battens (23 x 40 mm), which were glued and screwed together in an offset manner. The offset is 23 mm and must be made on all sides of the door (including the bottom – otherwise it will not be tight).
The measurement can of course vary, depending on the dimensions of the planed slats. But it is easier to orientate on the material, then you do not have to plane the woods as well.
We sanded the laths with fine sandpaper before we put them together.
The frame should be absolutely horizontal. After the frame was built we prepared our countertop. We have 18mm OSB boards absolutely horizontally on a table aligned and fastened. After that we copied the frame, so to speak. We took the dimensions of the frame and screwed laths exactly with these dimensions on the OSB board. .
So we had a template so to speak and could work very precisely. The laths of the template had exactly the same offset as the frame.
Building the sauna door
We also built the frame of the sauna door from 23 x 40mm laths. To the template we have left a lateral distance of 2 mm all around – otherwise you can not open the door later, because it sits too tightly in the frame. We were able to build the frame of the sauna door layer by layer in the template. The woods were glued and connected with wood screws. Not to be forgotten is a diagonal bracing of the door, so that it does not warp over time.
We made the surface of the door with the same profiled boards that we had used for the interior of the sauna.
We glued the profile boards to the frame timbers and fixed them with small metal pins.
The cutout for the glass pane must be left out of course.
After one side of the door was finished, we could take it out of the template and turn it around.
The filling of the door we have insulated with mineral wool. Walls and floor of the sauna were not additionally insulated, but due to the construction wooden studs, OSB and profiled boards on spacer timbers were tight. With the door we were not sure whether the surface of profile boards will remain tight in the long term and stop drafts (now we know that it would have worked even without insulation). So we filled the space in between with mineral wool. The second side of the door is also covered with profiled boards.
Installing the door hinges
We used drill-in hinges to connect the sauna door with the frame.
First of all we fixed the two one-boron hinges to the frame.
We marked the drill holes and drilled the holes with a suitable wood drill (pay attention to the correct diameter of the drill bit!)
Then the door hinges could be inserted into the frame.
We were now able to transfer the dimensions of the door hinges on the frame to the sauna door.
It is important to make sure that the sauna door also keeps a distance of 2mm in the frame (as in the template). We placed the door, with small spacers (2mm) at the bottom, in the frame and aligned it. Then we transferred the exact position of the installation hinges to the door. This is certainly also possible if you transfer the dimensions with the tape measure – but better safe than sorry.
Here, too, the necessary holes had to be drilled and the drill-in hinges attached.
To ensure that the sauna door closes really tightly, magnetic closers were installed in two places in the door and frame.
For this, the necessary notches had to be made. No problem with sharp chisels.
Without these magnets you can hardly get the sauna door tight.
They must be installed exactly flush with the surface.
The counterpart of the magnetic closer was installed in the frame. Again, the surface must be exactly flush with the surface of the frame. The screw heads must not protrude.
Sharp chisels and precise work help here. The exact position of the two counterparts was transferred from the door to the frame and the counterparts were installed.
If you now close the door, it will be pressed tightly against the frame by the magnets.
Now we could hang up the sauna door.
The glass cutout was made afterwards, because the door with the glass pane would have been a bit too heavy to align it in the frame.
The door fit one hundred percent into the frame.
We fixed the glass retaining strips on the inside and placed the insulating glass pane in the cutout.
Then we could close the front side tightly with small wooden strips.