New techniques, better pigments: The days when permanent makeup was primarily considered unnatural have long been passe. Photo: Getty Images
From STYLEBOOK | 26. April 2021, 15:14
Hard eyeliner strokes, dark lip contours and unnatural eyebrows – when we talk about permanent make-up, we quickly have extreme images in our heads. The treatment can be a sensible alternative to cost-intensive make-up products and save a few minutes in the bathroom in everyday life. STYLEBOOK spoke with an expert about the treatment.
Drawing a straight eyelid line in a hurry in the dimly lit bathroom in the morning? Impossible for many. Keeping perfectly made-up lips all evening despite dinner and drinks? Almost more impossible. Permanent makeup could be a solution, but many women are reluctant to undergo this beauty treatment, which can have serious consequences. Why actually?
The trend of the 90s
In fact, cosmetic tattoos are not a phenomenon of the present day; on the contrary, even before prehistoric times, people had their lips and eyebrows permanently redrawn or tattooed with long-lasting beauty marks. In modern times, permanent makeup became popular especially in the 90s of the last century, when dark lip contours and super-thin eyebrows were proclaimed the ideal of beauty. Critics were not long in coming; because of its lack of naturalness, permanent makeup quickly acquired a negative image, which was due in no small part to the technique used and the colors used.
What has changed?
Cosmetician Katrin Pischel has been working with permanent makeup for several years and knows, why the treatment still has a bad image today: "In the past, the colors were more like tattoo colors. Who had an eyelid line made in the 90s, can have this under circumstances today still. Unfortunately, this is a bad example of good permanent makeup", explains the expert. The type of painting technique has also changed significantly over the past 30 years. „Powderbrows and nano-shading did not exist in the past. Since simply the contour was drawn, then painted and finished, which often looked very artificial in the result. Today you work with more color gradient and shading, use other colors and get a much more natural result", according to the expert.
Especially when it comes to eyebrows, a lot has happened in terms of technology. In the meantime, many different effects can be achieved. Light shading with colors only, ombre-effects, the repainting of individual hairs or the filling of gaps with dot technique- there is a solution for every skin type and every eyebrow shape. Currently particularly popular: the so-called microshading. A very fine nano-needle is used to inject color pigments in fine lines or dots under the skin. This creates a very natural effect, because the eyebrows are only shaded.
How long does permanent make-up last??
„The pigmenting device for permanent make-up is the same as in a tattoo studio, only with less power. The pigmentation devices are much lighter and the pigment only reaches the epidermis", explains cosmetician Pischel. „In addition, the colors have a stronger pigment size than conventional tattoo colors, which is why they are more easily broken down by the body.“ However, even the expert can’t predict exactly how long the makeup will last: "It has a lot to do with lifestyle: Do you smoke or not, do you go out in the sun a lot, do you have dry or oily skin?. Metabolism also plays a role. Basically, however, it can be said that the make-up lasts for two to five years.“
The advantages of permanent make-up
Probably the most obvious advantage of permanent make-up- The time saving. Whether directly after getting up, after a long day at work or after sports, the make-up always fits perfectly. There is also the advantage that you don’t have to worry about anything running or smudging. Katrin Pischel also emphasizes the advantages of the permanent treatment: "It is often no longer a question of looking made up. The point is to improve the natural conditions.“ Particularly in the case of permanent make-up for the lips, for example, not only the color of the lips is refreshed, but above all the contour of the lips is traced in the natural color in order to emphasize the difference between the skin and the lips. „On the lips, the color always looks very natural and will never be as opaque as with a real lipstick", says the expert.
The possible disadvantages
One of the biggest advantages is at the same time an argument against permanent make-up: Whoever decides on an eyelid line or eyebrow shape must first live with it for two years. The fear of mistakes is often great among customers, because once the eyeliner is in place, it stays that way. But beautician Katrin Pischel gives the all-clear: "With every permanent makeup treatment, there is no problem but especially for eyeliner and lip contour- The change is first painted on and only then incorporated with the needle.“ Together you model until everyone is satisfied. Nevertheless, the client must be aware that in the end the look cannot be changed as flexibly as with conventional makeup.
Cost of the treatment
Whether you really save money in the end with a permanent makeup treatment depends on which treatment you have done. Basically, shaded eyebrows cost approx. 350 euros, a permanent eyeliner between 200 and 300 euros. The price range for a permanent lip make-up varies depending on the effort and imagination- a simple contour beats with ca. 200 euros, a light shading costs about 350 euros. A full lip make-up with volume effect can cost up to 600 euros, but also makes a visit to the beauty doctor superfluous. The result should be examined again by the beautician about one month after the treatment. This aftercare is usually included in the price.
Possible side effects of a treatment
If the intervention was carried out professionally, side effects are rare. Directly after the treatment, skin redness or slight swelling can still occur. The treated zones then need to be carefully cleaned with an antiseptic. Serious complications usually only occur if the provider is a dubious one who practices with poor quality color or with insufficient training. Therefore, when choosing a beauty salon, it is advisable to look not only at the prices and ask to see certificates or other awards.