Motorsport Magazine.com – The Nurburgring is not the only place where privateers without racing licenses can drive their cars. The magic word "tourist trip should be a term of every motor sport enthusiast. But anyone who has ever seen such a weekend spectacle from close up knows also, you would rather not do that with your own first car. Already because heating over a race track is much more stressful for the vehicle. Not to mention the fact that the everyday car is sometimes not very suitable for the racetrack.
So what to do? Perhaps one of ABT refined 500 HP RS3 and use the? Possible safe, but certainly also in higher price spheres settled. Besides, such a ring racer goes also for much narrower money. We show how.
1. Simple, strong and cheap
Who knows our tuning section, knows, That there is not only theoretically no car that you could not convert to a race car. But: This is all about keeping the budget suitable for normal consumers.
Means, one looks for a used vehicle, which exhibits the following attributes:
- It’s a mass model, so it’s easy to get and therefore has a sufficient supply of both replacement and motorsport specific parts.
- There is already a high performance engine under the hood, so rather BMW E46 325i/328i than 316i/318i. All the less money one must spend directly for performance tuning measures. But: It’s not already a "real" one by nature sports cars; this is counterproductive for the price.
- It is not a classic car (parts supply, purchase price…) but also not a too new vehicle. 20, 25 years is optimal, because then most cars are at the bottom of their value.
Whether it then coupe, Whether it is a notchback sedan, a hatchback or a station wagon is a matter of taste. Only a convertible should not be it already for safety reasons moreover, convertible variants are usually heavier because of the necessary reinforcements.
Of course, the cost to this point depends to a considerable extent from the individual vehicle. However, even more expensive basic vehicles can be financially stemmed, if you previously the credit comparison of Bon Credit uses. To put it simply: the maximum limit can realistically be set at 10.000 euros must be specified.
2. Passable basic status
There are many people who build a racer and disassemble the vehicle down to the last screw to do so. Of course, with such vehicles, it is less important how many miles the machine has on the pistons or to what extent Rust and Co. the bodywork through.
Here it concerns however a vehicle, which in the justifiable cost and expenditure framework "ring-ready" can be made. Here you should apply the same standards that you would apply to a normal road vehicle. So a not too high mileage and- especially important for stronger vehicles, which are more susceptible to this from the ground up- the lowest possible degree of "tinkering". Therefore, previous tuners should not have already worked on the car; certainly not unsuccessfully.
If the car would fulfill so the criteria of the TuV, one lies correctly. And apropos TuV:
3. Überwachungsverein on board
The Criteria for tourist drives on the Nurburgring prescribe crystal clear that every vehicle must comply with the StVZO and be regularly registered- red 07 license plates are not allowed.
ÜThis means the following: The Ring Racer must also necessarily pass a normal HU. It is a well-known fact that tuning is always a matter of one thing and another. Especially because of the quite profound modifications here, it is strongly recommended to sit down with a testing organization of your choice beforehand and explain to the engineers what you intend to do.
In contrast to what many tuners think, TuV and Co. No motor sport enemies. You just want to make sure that everything is done technically clean- If you carry out the conversion under their auspices, ask them before buying parts and more liberal conversion measures, you can avoid a lot of trouble and expensive rework during the acceptance test, which is necessary anyway. Most of those who prepare a racer proceed in this way.
4. Tuning in the right order
The car should be taken to the racetrack. So what needs to be optimized first? Wrong, not the benefit. Sufficient basic power for the beginning has already been provided by the choice of engine. This topic can be dealt with later in detail. For now, here’s what we’re talking about:
- Safety is the be-all and end-all. As an absolute minimum the existing belts should be replaced by four-point belts- at least for the driver and the homologation rules of the FIA accordingly, even if you’re only on board for fun goes. However, if you want to do it right, uninstall the rear seat and front seats (first TuV hurdle for side airbags) and install racing shells plus said belts- übrigens fixed adjustable belts without retractors.
- Minimum is a simpleuberrollbugel along the B-pillar. However: For a real racer you should rather aim for a roll cage including side struts. A complete safety cell is not necessary and the cage can be of the screwed variety, it does not have to be welded in.
- The next step is to improve the brakes. Since these are already designed for the higher engine power in terms of diameter, it is usually sufficient to use sportier discs- approximately perforated. Sportier brake pads and gladly Stahlflex brake hoses round out this work.
- The standard rims and tires are exchanged for sportier ones.
- Together with the brakes, the chassis needs to be replaced: new, sportier bushings, stiffer stabilizers, and of course springs and shock absorbers. The goal must be to a) renew the chassis and b) make it suitable for the racetrack. Important: You will not be able to do this work without having a wheel alignment done by a professional afterwards! And: Sometimes it will be necessary to adapt the wheel arches to the rims, for example by edge beading. Therefore, ideally perform these two steps together.
- In the interior, everything may be removed from coverings, which does not pay rent. However: Around the driver the often sharp-edged sheet metal parts under it should be covered absolutely by light materials; for instance plastic plates (again a case for consultation with the TuV).
In this form, it is already absolutely roadworthy. It is safe, stable to drive and probably a few dozen kilograms lighter. Very good. If you still have money left over now, you can start with milder performance tuning measures: Sporty air filter, fan manifold, remaining exhaust system and if necessary. a chip tuning.
Don’t worry, this vehicle will give you pleasure for many years to come and tempt you to spend more money on it- The Nurburgring was not built in one day.